Kat'ryna's+Materials

Russian Embroidery - Materials
Ground materials included silk, leather, wool and linen. Silk was most commonly used as a ground in ecclesiastical embroideries, though linen was used as well. Decoration on clothing was frequently embroidered onto a separate piece which was then appliqued onto the garment itself; this could be linen, silk, or wool. Leather shoes were embroidered, as well. A variety of weaves of fabric were used as ground for embroidery -- velvet, taffeta, and satin (usually silk); canvas and tabby (of linen); felt (made of wool); and damask and brocade (patterned fabrics which could be made from a variety of materials). Ground colors included white, off-white, cream, dark brown, reddish-yellow, gold, yellow, greenish-gold, green, blue, dark blue, purple, violet, pink, crimson, and black. Embroidery materials included silk, linen and wool floss, though the silk floss was by far the most commonly used material. Colors of silk included white, off-white, grey, beige, terracotta, light to dark brown, 'flesh-color', yellow, yellowish-greenish, emerald green, pale blue, blue, lilac, purple, violet, red, and reddish-yellowish (Figure 1). Couched materials included gold and silver thread, thicker silver-gilt wire, and braid or cording of linen, wool, and silk. I also found one example of cotton cord dated to 1550. Pieces of fabric could also be appliqued on, usually of the same types of fabric as those used for the ground. Other objects were also applied, as single decorative elements or as part of the overall design. River pears could be sewn on individually or couched in geometric or curvilinear patterns (Figure 2, Figure 4). A common method of adding visual interest was sewing on small metal pieces, or plaques, in silver, gold, or bronze. These plaques could be engraved or embossed, and the engraved area was sometimes filled in with niello, a black substance. The engraving took the form of curvilinear patterns or ecclesiastical designs such as saints or donation inscriptions (Figure 2). They could have simple shapes, like circles or squares or ovals, or they could be quite complex (Figure 3). Semiprecious and precious stones, such as rubies, emeralds, sapphires, turquoise, or tourmalines, were also used to accent the designs (Figure 4).
 * Ground**
 * Applied**

Geffroi le crieur Kate Jones Last updated: 25 Feb 2006 geffroi@gmail.com